Transplant shock
Moving a plant breaks fine roots and drops it into sun, wind and cold it has never felt. It wilts, stalls, or scorches while it adjusts. Hardened-off plants moved with their rootball intact barely notice.
Roots & damage
What it looks like
It appears within a day of moving, and fades as roots grow.
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Limp leaves Seedlings flop in the first sunny afternoon after planting. -
Scorched patches Pale or brown patches on leaves never exposed to full sun. -
No growth The plant sits still for one to two weeks. -
Early bolting Coriander and dill may run to seed after the move.
How to confirm it
Timing is everything here.
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Moved recently
Symptoms start within days of planting out or repotting.
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Moist soil
The plant wilts although watered.
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New growth resumes
Within two weeks new leaves appear. If not, look for pests or rot.
What to do
Reduce the stress while roots settle.
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Shade for a few days
Cover new transplants with fleece or shade cloth in sun.
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Water in and keep moist
Water well at planting and keep the soil evenly moist, not wet.
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Shelter from wind
Use a cloche or a board to keep wind off for the first week.
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Hold back feed
Feed once new growth shows.
Prevent it next time
- Harden off indoor-raised plants over 7 to 14 days.
- Plant on a cloudy day or in the evening.
- Move plants with a full rootball; sow tap-rooted herbs where they grow.
- Grow cucurbits and peppers in modules or pots to avoid root damage.
What not to do
Do not overwater a wilting transplant. Waterlogged soil stops new roots from forming.
In the growing guides
Where the guides mention it, with plant-specific advice.
Sources
- Harden your transplants prior to planting your garden, South Dakota State University Extension
- Hardening off vegetable transplants is easy, Michigan State University Extension