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Cilantro (coriander) growing in a garden
Updated Sep 28, 2026 15 min read

Herbs

How to Grow Cilantro (Coriander)

One plant, two harvests: fresh leaves in cool weather and spicy coriander seed once it flowers. Sow little and often, straight where it is to grow.

Difficulty
Moderate
Light
Full sun
Water
Moderate
Life cycle
Annual
01

Overview

What cilantro needs, when it crops, and whether it suits your space.

Cilantro races through its life: a few weeks of leaves, then it flowers and sets seed, sooner in heat and long days. That is not a failure: the flowers feed hoverflies and bees, and the seeds are the spice coriander. The trick is timing, so there is always a young batch in leaf.

Quick facts

Botanical name
Coriandrum sativum
Soil pH
6.5
Feeding
Light feeder
Hardiness
Any zone, as an annual
Time to harvest
45 – 80 days
Height
Up to 90 cm (35 in)
Propagation
Seed

Growing details

Germination
7 – 21 days
Spacing
15 cm (6 in)
Sowing depth
10 mm (⅜ in)
Frost sensitivity
Frost hardy

Growing calendar

  • Start indoors: February, March
  • Sow outdoors: March, April, May, June, August, September
  • Harvest: May, June, July, August, September, October, November

UK timing (RHS): pots on a warm, sunny windowsill, for short-term leaves. Cool temperate timing: every few weeks in spring and early summer, again from mid-August. In hot climates, sow in autumn. Cool temperate timing: leaves late spring to autumn, into early winter under cloches; seed from late summer.

Is this plant right for you?

  • Fast crop
  • Good in pots
  • Cool-season herb
  • Sow little and often
  • Leaves and seeds
  • Attracts beneficial insects
  • Bolts in heat

Good to know

It does well in a pot indoors or out, so you do not need a bed for it. It stands frost, so it can go out earlier than tender crops.

02

Before You Grow

Choose a slow-bolting variety for leaves, and a cool, sunny spot with free-draining soil.

Cilantro is the leaf and coriander the seed: one plant, Coriandrum sativum.

What you need

Free-draining soil or compost

Cilantro dislikes soggy conditions. See soil.

A deep pot, if growing in containers

For the long taproot. See containers.

Slug protection

Seedlings are a favourite. See pests.

A paper bag

For catching ripe seeds. See saving seed.

Choose your cilantro

There is one species, Coriandrum sativum, and a handful of varieties. The choice comes down to what you want to harvest.

For leaves, choose a variety sold as slow-bolting, such as ‘Calypso’, ‘Leisure’, ‘Santo’, ‘Cruiser’ or ‘Slo Bolt’. They flower later and give more cuts. None holds up in real heat and long days (UW-Madison), but they buy you time.

‘Calypso’ makes big rosettes and can be cut back to regrow at least three times in a summer (Gardeners’ World). ‘Leisure’ is ready in 28 to 40 days (Illinois).

For seeds, any variety works (Utah State). ‘Confetti’ has fine, ferny leaves, good for microgreens and garnish.

Supermarket pots are dozens of crowded seedlings grown for a short life. They soon flower or rot, though dividing and repotting them promptly can save them (RHS). The RHS advises keeping them indoors.

Where cilantro grows best

Cilantro is a cool-season herb. It grows leaves happily in the cool, shorter days of spring and autumn, and flowers fast in heat and long days.

Heat and day length. Both push it to flower. In midsummer it can bolt and set seed within four to six weeks of sowing (Oregon State).

Sun. Full sun in spring and autumn. In summer, a spot shaded from midday or afternoon sun delays bolting (RHS, UMD, Penn State).

Cold. Mature plants take light frost (Oregon State) but not a hard freeze (UW-Madison). Under cloches, autumn sowings give leaves into early winter.

Warm climates. Where summers are hot, grow it through autumn and winter instead (UF/IFAS, Utah State).

Germinates at
13 to 20 °C (55 to 68 °F) soil
Bolts
In heat and long summer days
Cold
Takes light frost, not a hard freeze

Soil

Well-drained, moderately fertile soil suits cilantro; it copes with most types that drain well.

Preparation. Work 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in) of well-rotted compost into the top 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) for each 2.3 m² (25 sq ft) (Utah State), then rake to a fine, loose seedbed.

pH. Around 6.5 (Penn State).

Not too rich. See feeding.

Coriander seeds being sown into a shallow drill
03

Planting

Sow straight where it will grow: its long taproot hates being moved.

Sow a small batch every two to four weeks. One big sowing gives one short glut.

When to sow cilantro

Sow for cool weather, in small batches.

Spring. Start in early spring, at lettuce-sowing time (UW-Madison). Illinois and Utah State sow once the danger of frost has passed; the RHS sows outdoors from spring onwards.

Little and often. Sow a small batch every two to four weeks through spring and early summer for a steady supply.

Skip midsummer for leaves: plants bolt before producing much (UW-Madison, Oregon State). Midsummer is the time to sow for seed.

Late summer and autumn. Sow again from mid-August for an autumn leaf crop, under cloches or in a greenhouse to carry it into early winter (RHS).

Warm climates. Sow in autumn for a winter and spring harvest.

  • Spring and late summer for leaves.
  • Every 2 to 4 weeks for a steady supply.
  • Midsummer sowings run to seed.

How to sow cilantro

Sow where it is to grow. Its long taproot makes transplanting difficult.

  1. Make a shallow drill

    6 to 13 mm (¼ to ½ in) deep (Utah State, UW-Madison); Gardeners’ World sows 1 cm (⅜ in). Rows 30 cm (12 in) apart, in fine, raked soil.

  2. Space the seeds

    The seeds are large: sow them one by one, about 5 cm (2 in) apart (RHS).

  3. Cover and water

    Cover lightly with soil and water gently. Seeds come up in one to three weeks, depending on soil temperature.

  4. Thin the seedlings

    For leaves, to 5 to 15 cm (2 to 6 in) apart; for seed, to 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 in), as plants grow bigger.

  5. Mulch

    Once seedlings are up, a light mulch keeps weeds down and the soil cool (Utah State).

Planting bought cilantro

Young plants from a garden centre, or a supermarket pot given a second life.

  1. Harden off

    Plants raised under glass need gradually getting used to outdoor conditions (RHS): outside for a few hours at first, for longer each day.

  2. Divide crowded pots

    Tease a supermarket pot into several small clumps and pot or plant each separately (RHS).

  3. Plant at the same depth

    About 10 cm (4 in) apart, disturbing the roots as little as you can.

  4. Protect them

    From slugs and snails, especially in damp weather, and with fleece if frost threatens.

Coriander seeds being sown into a shallow drill
A bushy row of coriander in partial shade
04

Care

Keep it just moist, feed sparingly, and pinch off flower stems to keep the leaves coming.

Hot, dry weather makes it flower. Shade from midday sun and steady moisture buy you weeks.

Care by growth stage

Seedlings

Water: keep just moist

Thin, weed and protect from slugs. See sowing.

Leafy plants

Harvest: from 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) · Feed: once or twice a season

Pick regularly and keep the soil from drying out. See harvesting.

First flower stems

Pinch: as soon as they show

Pinch them out for more leaves, or leave them for seed. See delaying bolting.

Seeds forming

Water: reduce

Water less as the seeds ripen. See saving seed.

End of season

Resow: from mid-August

Collect the seed, pull the plants, or let a few self-sow for an autumn crop.

Watering cilantro

Cilantro wants soil that is moist but never soggy. Dry soil makes it bolt; Utah State finds it does poorly in damp or humid conditions.

In the ground. Water regularly while plants establish. After that, the RHS waters only in long dry spells, which helps to delay bolting.

In pots. See containers.

When. Early morning or evening, ideally with rainwater, at the base of the plants.

Seed crops. Water less as the seeds near ripeness (UW-Madison).

Feeding cilantro

Cilantro needs little. Compost dug in before sowing is usually enough.

If growth is pale and slow, feed once or twice in the season: Utah State side-dresses in early summer with about 60 ml (¼ cup) of a nitrogen fertiliser (21-0-0) per 2.3 m² (25 sq ft). Gardeners’ World uses an occasional liquid seaweed feed.

Don’t overdo it. Too much nitrogen gives lush but less flavourful leaves.

Delaying bolting

Pinch out flower stems as soon as they appear, to keep plants leafy for longer (RHS, UMD). Every plant flowers eventually; after that, the new leaves are fine and ferny, with a stronger flavour.

Keep it cool. Afternoon shade, a straw mulch and steady moisture keep the soil cool (Penn State).

Grow plants close together so they shade each other’s roots (Utah State).

Pick often. Regular cutting encourages new leaves.

And let some go. The flowers are edible and draw hoverflies and parasitic wasps; the seeds are coriander.

Cilantro in containers

Cilantro grows particularly well in containers, which give it the free drainage it likes (RHS).

Pot. Deep, for the taproot: Utah State warns against shallow containers, though none of the sources gives a size. Use peat-free multi-purpose compost. Sow straight into it: ‘Pot Cilantro’ was bred for this.

Position. Sun in spring and autumn; move the pot out of the midday sun in summer.

Water. Pots dry out fast in warm weather, and dry compost means bolting. Check daily and water to keep the compost just moist, never sitting wet.

Growing cilantro indoors

Indoors, cilantro is a short-term crop: in low light it turns pale and leggy, and a warm room makes it bolt (RHS).

Sow in pots from February on a warm, sunny windowsill, then grow them on somewhere bright but cool.

Keep the soil cool, below about 24 °C (75 °F), away from radiators and hot windows (Utah State).

Sow again every few weeks, or grow it as microgreens, cut after about two weeks.

Ventilate. The RHS warns it can smell unpleasant in an enclosed space.

A bushy row of coriander in partial shade
05

Problems

Bolting is the main problem; slugs, aphids and leaf spot are the rest.

Common cilantro problems

Most cilantro problems are about timing and heat, not pests.

Leaves turning feathery and bitter

  • Bolting

The plant has started to flower. Pick what you can, then let it seed and sow a fresh batch.

Pale, leggy plants indoors

  • Low light

Not enough light. Move to the brightest cool spot, or grow outdoors.

Seedlings wilting after transplanting

  • Root disturbance

The taproot resents being moved. Sow direct, or plant pot-grown clumps without breaking up the rootball.

Supermarket pot collapsing

  • Overcrowding

Too many seedlings in one pot rot or flower fast. Divide and repot promptly.

Common pests

Slugs and snails

Eat seedlings and young plants, especially in damp weather. Protect sowings and check after rain.

Aphids

Under leaves and along stems. A hard spray of water knocks them off (Penn State).

Cutworms

Seedlings cut off at soil level overnight. Look for pale caterpillars in the soil around them (Penn State).

Leafhoppers

They spread aster yellows: flowers turn yellow and plants grow tall, spindly and sterile. Utah State controls the leafhoppers.

Common diseases

Bacterial leaf spot

Water-soaked spots with a yellow edge that turn dark brown to black. Remove infected plants (not to the compost heap), water at the base, improve air flow, and don’t grow cilantro or its relatives there next year (Penn State). Some seed suppliers now test seed for it.

Seedlings yellowing and dying

Damping off and seedling rots, worst in cold, wet compost. Sow thinly in fresh compost and don’t overwater.

Rot in crowded pots

Fungal rots in overcrowded supermarket pots. Thin or divide, and don’t overwater.

Scissors cutting a handful of coriander leaves
06

Harvest & Use

Pick leaves from 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) tall, then flowers, then seeds.

Harvesting cilantro

Everything above ground is edible: leaves, stems, flowers and seeds, and the roots are used in Thai and Vietnamese cooking.

Leaves. Start when plants are 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) tall, about 45 to 80 days after sowing (UW-Madison). Take a few leaves from each plant, snipping at the base of the stalk, then let them recover for a couple of weeks (RHS). Picking the older outer leaves encourages new ones; the young leaves have the most flavour.

Whole plants. Or cut the whole plant 2.5 cm (1 in) above the ground; it can regrow for a second cut (UW-Madison).

Flowers. Pick the small white umbels for salads.

Green seeds. Unripe green seeds have a milder flavour.

Roots. Dig plants that haven’t flowered in autumn. For ripe seed, see saving seed.

  • Leaves from 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) tall.
  • A few at a time from each plant.
  • Stems, flowers and seeds are edible too.

Storing and using cilantro

The leaves are best fresh, and best added at the very end of cooking.

In the fridge. Cut leaves keep about a week, or longer stood in a glass of water like a bouquet (UW-Madison).

Freezing. Chop and freeze in a bag: good for curries, soups and stews, less so as a garnish (Gardeners’ World).

Drying. Dried leaves lose much of their flavour. Dried seeds keep theirs: store them whole in an airtight jar and grind as needed.

Using it. Salsas, stir-fries, curries and chutneys; coriander seed is a main ingredient of garam masala (UF/IFAS).

Scissors cutting a handful of coriander leaves
Dry coriander seed heads with round brown seeds
07

Propagation

Saving your own seed, for the kitchen and for next year’s sowing.

Saving coriander seed

Let a few plants flower and you get both the spice and next year’s seed. Seed is ready about three months after sowing (UF/IFAS); UW-Madison allows a season of at least 100 days.

When. Seeds turn from green to reddish to light brown, usually two to three weeks after flowering. Cut when the plant is turning brown, before the seeds shatter.

How. Cut whole stems and put the heads in a paper bag. Hang it somewhere warm and airy until the heads are dry, then shake: the seeds drop into the bag.

Or dry on paper. The RHS spreads loose seed on paper in a warm room for about a week. Store in an airtight jar for cooking, or a labelled envelope for sowing.

Self-sowing. Left alone, plants scatter their own seed, and seedlings often come up when the weather cools.

Dry coriander seed heads with round brown seeds
08

More to Explore

Quick answers, guides that pair well with cilantro, and the sources behind this one.

Frequently asked questions

Are cilantro and coriander the same plant?

Yes. In the US, cilantro is the leaf and coriander the seed; in the UK the whole plant is coriander.

Why does my cilantro bolt so quickly?

Heat, long days and dry soil. Sow in spring and late summer, and shade from midday sun. See delaying bolting.

Can I stop cilantro from flowering?

Not forever, but pinching out flower stems and keeping it cool and moist delays it.

Can I transplant cilantro?

Yes, with care: its long taproot resents disturbance. Sow direct where you can, and move pot-grown plants with the rootball intact. See planting bought cilantro.

How often should I sow cilantro?

Every two to four weeks in spring, early summer and late summer.

Does cilantro grow back after cutting?

Yes: pick a few leaves at a time, or cut the plant 2.5 cm (1 in) above the ground for a second cut. See harvesting.

Can I grow cilantro indoors?

For a short time, on a bright, cool windowsill. See growing indoors.

Why does cilantro taste like soap to some people?

A gene that detects its aldehydes makes it taste soapy to some people.

Sources

  1. How to grow coriander (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
  2. Cilantro/coriander in the garden (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension
  3. Cilantro / coriander, Coriandrum sativum (opens in a new tab) University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension
  4. How to grow cilantro for leaves, or coriander seeds (opens in a new tab) Oregon State University Extension Service
  5. Cilantro, a unique culinary herb (opens in a new tab) Penn State Extension
  6. Cilantro/coriander (opens in a new tab) University of Maryland Extension
  7. Cilantro (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
  8. Cilantro (opens in a new tab) UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions
  9. How to grow coriander (opens in a new tab) BBC Gardeners’ World

How we choose sources