Overview
What dill needs, when it crops, and whether it suits your space.
Dill gives you leaves six weeks after sowing, and then, in heat or dry soil, it sends up a tall stalk of yellow umbels and stops. Plan for that: sow a short row every few weeks, sow it where it will grow, keep it watered, and let the last plants flower. Hoverflies and bees crowd the flowers, and the seeds flavour pickles.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Anethum graveolens
- Soil pH
- 5.5 – 6.5
- Feeding
- Light feeder
- Hardiness
- Any zone, as an annual
- Time to harvest
- 42 – 56 days
- Height
- Up to 150 cm (59 in)
- Propagation
- Seed
Growing details
- Germination
- 7 – 21 days
- Spacing
- 20 cm (8 in)
Growing calendar
- Start indoors: March, April
- Sow outdoors: April, May, June, July, August
- Harvest: June, July, August, September, October
One seed per module, at 15 °C (60 °F) or more; transplant at about four weeks. Small batches from mid-spring to midsummer; late summer for an autumn crop. Leaves from about six weeks after sowing; seed two to three weeks after flowering.
Is this plant right for you?
- Fast crop
- Sow little and often
- Leaves and seeds
- Good in deep pots
- Attracts beneficial insects
- Self-seeds
- Bolts in heat
Good to know
It does well in a pot indoors or out, so you do not need a bed for it.
Before You Grow
Choose a leafy, slow-bolting variety or a seed type, and a warm, sunny, sheltered spot.
Dill is one species with few varieties: pick leafy slow-bolting types for leaves, ‘Mammoth’ types for seed.
What you need
Seed
Sown direct: dill moves badly. See choose your dill.
A warm, sunny, sheltered spot
Out of the wind, which flattens tall plants. See where it grows best.
Free-draining soil
Dill dislikes cold, soggy ground. See soil.
A deep pot, for containers
At least 30 cm (12 in) deep and wide. See containers.
Canes
For tall varieties in exposed spots. See picking and staking.
A paper bag
For catching seed. See saving seed.
Choose your dill
Dill is a single species, Anethum graveolens, with a handful of varieties in two broad groups: leafy, slow-bolting types and seed types (UW-Madison).
For leaves, choose a slow-bolting variety: ‘Dukat’ (and ‘Superdukat’), ‘Tetra’, ‘Hercules’ and ‘Green Sleeves’ flower later and give more cuts.
For seed and pickling, ‘Mammoth’ (‘Long Island Mammoth’) has large flower heads for pickling, and ‘Bouquet’ suits seed and cut flowers.
For pots and window boxes, compact types: ‘Fernleaf’ at about 45 cm (18 in), ‘Bouquet’ at about 30 cm (12 in) in Gardeners’ World’s trials, ‘Domino’, ‘Diana’, ‘Ella’ and ‘Monia’.
Sizes vary with conditions. Dill can reach 1.5 m (5 ft), but most plants flower and stop at about 90 cm (3 ft) (RHS).
Dill varieties compared
-
‘Dukat’ / ‘Tetra’
- Height
- 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft)
- Best for
- Leaves
- Notes
- Slow to bolt, strong flavour
-
‘Hercules’
- Height
- Up to 1.5 m (5 ft)
- Best for
- Leaves
- Notes
- Tall, slow to bolt
-
‘Fernleaf’
- Height
- About 45 cm (18 in)
- Best for
- Pots, leaves
- Notes
- Dwarf, slow to bolt
-
‘Bouquet’
- Height
- 30 to 90 cm (1 to 3 ft)
- Best for
- Seed, cut flowers
- Notes
- Compact; flowers freely
-
‘Mammoth’
- Height
- About 90 cm (3 ft)
- Best for
- Seed, pickling
- Notes
- Large flower heads
Heights vary by source and conditions (RHS, Gardeners’ World, UW-Madison). For a first sowing, ‘Dukat’ for leaves.
Where dill grows best
Dill wants a warm, sunny, sheltered spot with free-draining soil. It dislikes cold, soggy conditions.
Sun. Full sun; Utah State finds the leaves richest in oil in full sun.
Shelter. Tall plants blow over in strong wind: choose shelter or stake them (Gardeners’ World).
Heat and drought. Hot, dry weather makes dill flower early and stop making leaves. Steady moisture and thinning to the right spacing delay it.
Cool-season sowings. Dill does well in the cooler weather of spring and late summer. UW-Madison sows a week or two before the last hard frost.
In the border. The feathery leaves and yellow umbels look good among flowers, and draw bees, hoverflies and wasps.
- Sun
- Full sun
- Germinates
- In 7 to 21 days, faster in warm soil
- Leaves ready
- About 6 to 8 weeks after sowing
Soil
Dill grows in most well-drained soils of average to moderate fertility (Utah State, UW-Madison).
Preparation. Weed, fork over to break up lumps, remove stones and rake to a fine texture (RHS). On poor soil, add a little well-rotted compost; Utah State adds no more than 2.5 cm (1 in) per 9 m² (100 sq ft).
pH. 5.5 to 6.5 (Utah State).
No rich feeding. Once the soil is prepared, dill needs no extra nutrients.
Planting
Sow where it will grow: dill’s taproot hates being moved.
A short row every few weeks from mid-spring to midsummer keeps young, leafy plants coming.
When to sow dill
Sow outdoors from mid-spring, once the soil has warmed, to midsummer (RHS). US extensions start earlier or later: UW-Madison and Illinois sow a week or two before the last frost; UMD waits until frost has passed.
Little and often. Sow a short row every few weeks: UW-Madison sows every 10 days or so while it is cool; Utah State every four to six weeks. Rows 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft) long keep a kitchen supplied.
Late summer. Sow again for an autumn crop (Utah State). Plants left to seed in autumn often come up by themselves next spring.
Indoors. Sow in modules in spring for an early start, or year-round for pots on a sunny windowsill (RHS).
- Outdoors from mid-spring to midsummer.
- A short row every few weeks.
- Again in late summer for autumn.
How to sow dill
Direct sowing is best: dill’s taproot resents being moved, and moved plants tend to bolt.
-
Make a shallow drill
In fine, raked soil, with rows 30 cm (12 in) apart.
-
Sow thinly and cover lightly
The RHS and Gardeners’ World sow about 1 cm (⅜ in) deep; UW-Madison barely covers the seed, as light helps it germinate. A light covering suits both.
-
Keep it moist
Seedlings appear in 7 to 21 days, depending on soil temperature (Utah State).
-
Thin the seedlings
To about 20 cm (8 in) apart (RHS, Gardeners’ World); Utah State allows 23 cm (9 in), UW-Madison 8 to 15 cm (3 to 6 in). Overcrowding encourages bolting.
-
Protect from slugs
Seedlings and young plants are vulnerable, especially in damp weather.
Planting module-raised or bought dill
Move plants young, before the taproot grows long.
-
Sow one seed per module
In peat-free seed compost, somewhere at least 15 °C (60 °F). Seeds come up in one to two weeks.
-
Harden off
Get plants used to outdoor conditions before planting out in spring or early summer (RHS).
-
Transplant at about four weeks
Water first, then lift each plant without disturbing the roots (RHS).
-
Plant at the same depth
About 20 cm (8 in) apart, and water in well.
Care
Water in dry spells, pick often, and cut flower stems for more leaves.
Dry soil and heat make dill flower early. Water in dry spells, especially in pots.
Care by growth stage
Seedlings
Water: keep moist until established
Thin, weed and protect from slugs. See sowing.
Leafy plants
Harvest: from about 6 weeks
Pick shoot tips often; water in dry spells. See watering.
Flower stems forming
Stake: tall plants in wind
Cut them for more leaves, or leave some for seed. See picking and staking.
Seeds ripening
Water: less needed
Cut heads before the seeds fall. See saving seed.
End of season
Deadhead: to limit self-seeding
Collect seed, or leave a few heads to self-sow for next spring.
Watering dill
Dill isn’t a heavy drinker, but dry soil makes it bolt.
In the ground. Water in dry spells (RHS); Utah State gives established plants one or two waterings a week in its dry climate.
In pots. Compost dries fast in warm weather: check often.
Not too much. Overwatered dill is prone to powdery mildew (Utah State). Plants tolerate drier soil once seed has set.
Feeding dill
Dill doesn’t normally need feeding. Soil prepared before sowing is enough (Utah State).
If it struggles, an occasional balanced liquid feed gives it a boost (Gardeners’ World).
Weed around young plants so they don’t compete for water and nutrients.
Picking, pinching and staking
Pick often. Regular harvesting, or pinching out shoot tips, keeps plants bushy and leafy (RHS, Utah State).
Cut flower stems as they form if you only want leaves: the plant then puts its energy into new foliage for longer (RHS).
Or let some flower. The flowers feed bees and hoverflies, whose larvae eat aphids (UW-Madison), and the seeds are a second crop.
Stake tall plants with canes in exposed spots: strong winds can flatten them (Gardeners’ World, UMD).
Dill in containers
Dill grows well in pots if they are deep enough for its long taproot.
Pot. At least 30 cm (12 in) deep and wide, filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost (RHS). Sow thinly and cover with about 1 cm (⅜ in) of compost.
Variety. Compact types such as ‘Fernleaf’, ‘Domino’, ‘Diana’ or ‘Bouquet’.
Water. Pots dry out quickly in warm weather, and dry compost makes dill bolt.
Growing dill indoors
Dill can be sown indoors year-round for pots on a sunny windowsill or in a warm greenhouse (RHS).
Light. Plants are bushier when light levels are high (RHS).
Pot. A deep one, for the taproot.
Problems
Bolting is the main problem; a few pests and diseases also turn up.
Common dill problems
Most problems are about heat, dry soil and disturbance.
Flowering soon after sowing
- Bolting
Hot, dry weather, root disturbance and overcrowding. Sow direct, thin properly, water in dry spells and cut flower stems. See picking and staking.
Plants flattened
- Wind
Tall plants in an exposed spot. Stake with canes or choose a compact variety.
Seedlings wilting after planting
- Root disturbance
Often root disturbance: dill’s taproot resents moving. Sow direct, or plant module-raised plants young, at about four weeks old.
Thin, weak plants indoors
- Low light
Not enough light. Grow on the sunniest windowsill, or sow outdoors in spring.
Dill everywhere next year
- Self-seeding
Seed heads left on the plant drop seed. Cut them before the seeds ripen if you don’t want seedlings.
Common pests
Aphids
Colonies on young plants, and when dill flowers and sets seed, leaving sticky honeydew. Squash them with your fingers (Gardeners’ World).
Slugs and snails
Eat seedlings and young plants. Protect sowings, especially in damp weather.
Swallowtail caterpillars
Green caterpillars with black stripes and yellow spots, which can strip a plant. They become swallowtail butterflies; most people let them feed; if there are too many, pick some off (UW-Madison).
Common diseases
Powdery mildew
White powdery coating on leaves, more likely when dill is overwatered (Utah State). Don’t overwater.
Harvest & Use
Pick leaves from about six weeks, and seed heads as the seeds turn brown.
Harvesting dill
Leaves can be picked from as soon as plants are a few centimetres tall until the flower stalk forms, usually from about six to eight weeks after sowing. Cut leaves at the stem, or cut whole stems a few centimetres above the ground, discarding thick, tough stalks (Utah State).
Best flavour. UMD picks leaves just as the flowers open, when the flavour peaks.
Flowers. The yellow umbels are edible and used in pickling.
Seeds. Ready two to three weeks after the flowers open. See saving seed.
- Leaves from about six weeks.
- Pick often to keep plants leafy.
- Flavour peaks as flowers open.
Storing and using dill
Dill leaves wilt quickly once picked and lose flavour when heated: add them at the end of cooking.
In the fridge. In a plastic bag, for about a week (UW-Madison).
Freezing. Preferably in water (UW-Madison), or whole sprigs in freezer bags (Utah State); the leaves darken but keep their flavour better than dried (UW-Madison).
Drying. Possible, but the flavour fades fast. Seeds keep their flavour: store them in an airtight jar.
Using it. Fish, egg and potato dishes, soups, salads and dill pickles; the seeds go into pickles, breads and vinegar.
Propagation
Saving seed for the kitchen and for next year, and letting dill sow itself.
Saving dill seed
Dill is grown from seed, and you can save your own.
When. Two to three weeks after the flowers open, when the seeds are fully formed and turning brown. Cut before they turn fully brown: ripe seeds shatter and fall (UW-Madison).
How. Cut the heads into a paper bag and hang it in a cool, dry, airy place, or dry them on screens, for about a week. Shake: the seeds drop into the bag.
Store in an airtight container somewhere cool. Kept dry and cool, seed stays viable for several years.
Self-sowing. Dill self-seeds readily: heads left in autumn give seedlings next spring. Deadhead if you don’t want them.
More to Explore
Quick answers, guides that pair well with dill, and the sources behind this one.
Frequently asked questions
Why is my dill flowering already?
Heat, dry soil, overcrowding or root disturbance. Sow direct, thin and water in dry spells. See common problems.
Can I transplant dill?
It dislikes it. Sow where it will grow, or move module-grown plants at about four weeks.
How often should I sow dill?
A short row every few weeks from mid-spring to midsummer, and again in late summer.
Should I cut the flowers off dill?
For leaves, yes. Leave some for seed and for bees and hoverflies.
Can dill grow in pots?
Yes, in a pot at least 30 cm (12 in) deep. See containers.
Will dill come back next year?
It is an annual, but it self-seeds readily if seed heads are left on.
When is dill seed ready?
Two to three weeks after flowering, as the seeds turn brown. Cut before they fall.
Is it bad to have caterpillars on dill?
They are usually swallowtail caterpillars. Most people let them feed; pick some off if there are too many (UW-Madison).
Related guides
Sources
- How to grow dill (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
- Dill, Anethum graveolens (opens in a new tab) University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension
- Dill in the garden (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension
- Dill (opens in a new tab) University of Maryland Extension
- Dill (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- How to grow dill (opens in a new tab) BBC Gardeners’ World