Overview
What strawberries need, when they fruit, and whether they suit your space.
Home-grown strawberries, picked red all over and still warm, taste nothing like shop ones. Plants are cheap, small and happy in beds, pots or baskets, and they make their own replacements on runners. Choose a mix of summer and perpetual varieties to pick from early summer into autumn, and start a fresh bed every three or four years.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Fragaria × ananassa
- Soil pH
- 5.6 – 6.5
- Hardiness
- USDA zone 4a and warmer
- Height
- Up to 30 cm (12 in)
- Propagation
- Runner, Seed
Survives −34 °C
Growing details
- Spacing
- 35 cm (14 in)
- Frost sensitivity
- Frost hardy
Growing calendar
- Plant out: March, April, May, August, September
- Flowering: April, May, June
- Harvest: June, July, August, September, October
- Propagate: July, August
Late summer or early autumn, or spring by May (RHS, Gardeners’ World). Cover open flowers on frosty nights (RHS). Summer-fruiting early June to early August; perpetuals into autumn (RHS). Root runners in late summer (RHS).
Is this plant right for you?
- Beginner friendly
- Grows in pots
- Good with children
- Frost hardy
- Needs sun
- Replace every 3 to 4 years
- Birds love them
Good to know
It does well in a pot indoors or out, so you do not need a bed for it. It stands frost, so it can go out earlier than tender crops.
Before You Grow
Choose summer-fruiting, perpetual or alpine, and a sunny, sheltered spot with rich, well-drained soil.
Don’t plant where potatoes, tomatoes or peppers grew recently: they carry verticillium wilt (Utah State).
What you need
Healthy plants
Certified, disease-free runners or pot plants. See choose your strawberries.
A sunny bed or pots
Rich and well drained. See soil.
Straw or mats
To keep fruit clean and dry. See care by stage.
Netting
Birds find ripe fruit first. See pests.
High-potash feed
For flowers and fruit. See feeding.
Fleece
For frosty nights at flowering. See growing conditions.
Choose your strawberries
There are three main types (RHS). Grow a mix to pick from early summer into autumn.
Summer-fruiting (June-bearing) strawberries give the biggest fruit in one heavy crop over two to four weeks. Early, mid and late varieties crop from early June to early August (RHS, Oregon State). RHS AGM choices: early ‘Honeoye’ and ‘Vibrant’; mid-season ‘Cambridge Favourite’ and ‘Hapil’; late ‘Florence’, ‘Pegasus’, ‘Rhapsody’ and ‘Symphony’.
Perpetual (everbearing and day-neutral) strawberries fruit in smaller flushes from early summer to early autumn, make fewer runners and suit small gardens and pots (RHS, Gardeners’ World): RHS AGM ‘Finesse’. Day-neutrals stop flowering in hot spells of about 32 °C (90 °F) (Oregon State).
Alpine (wild) strawberries bear tiny, aromatic berries on and off all summer, in sun or light shade; some are white or yellow (RHS).
Buying. Certified, disease-free plants from a reputable supplier. Don’t dig runners from an old bed: they often carry virus (RHS, Utah State).
Strawberry types compared
-
Summer-fruiting
- Crops
- Early June to early August, 2 to 4 weeks
- First crop
- Year after planting
- Runners
- Many
- Examples
- ‘Honeoye’, ‘Cambridge Favourite’, ‘Florence’
-
Perpetual
- Crops
- Early summer to early autumn
- First crop
- Planting year
- Runners
- Few
- Examples
- ‘Finesse’, ‘Albion’, ‘Seascape’
-
Alpine
- Crops
- Intermittently all summer
- First crop
- Often first year from seed
- Runners
- Some varieties
- Examples
- Red, white or yellow
From the RHS and Oregon State. For a long season, grow both summer-fruiting and perpetual types.
Where strawberries grow best
Sun and shelter. Full sun gives the sweetest fruit; Utah State wants eight hours a day. Plants tolerate some shade (RHS).
Frost. Plants are hardy, but open flowers are killed by late frost, and they make the largest berries. Avoid frost pockets and cover flowering plants on frosty nights (RHS, Utah State). A frosted flower shows a black centre and won’t set fruit.
Winter chill. Plants need a cold spell, ideally a fortnight below 7 °C (45 °F), to set flowers (Gardeners’ World).
Cold winters. Most cultivars suit USDA zones 4 to 8 (Oregon State). In cold regions, cover beds with 7.5 to 15 cm (3 to 6 in) of straw in late autumn and pull it back in spring (Utah State).
Rotation. Move the bed every three to five years, and avoid ground where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or aubergines grew recently (RHS, Utah State).
- Sun
- Full sun; 8 hours for the biggest crop
- Soil pH
- 5.6 to 6.5
- Spacing
- 35 to 40 cm (14 to 16 in); rows 75 cm (30 in)
Soil
Strawberries like fertile, well-drained, slightly acid soil (RHS). Loam or sandy soil suits them best; heavy clay means weaker plants and more disease unless it drains well (Utah State).
Preparation. Clear perennial weeds first: strawberries compete badly with them (Utah State). Dig in two bucketfuls of well-rotted organic matter per square metre a few weeks before planting (RHS).
pH. 5.5 to 6.5 (Illinois); Oregon State gives 5.6 to 6.5. Test a year ahead if you need to adjust it.
Poor or heavy soil. Plant in raised beds or ridges for drainage and rooting depth (RHS, Utah State).
Salt. Strawberries are very sensitive to salt; don’t over-fertilise (Utah State).
Planting
Plant in late summer, early autumn or spring, with the crown sitting at soil level.
A crown planted too deep rots; too shallow and it dries out (RHS).
When to plant strawberries
Late summer to early autumn is ideal in the UK: plants establish before fruiting the next year (RHS). Autumn planting also gives runners their winter chill (Gardeners’ World).
Spring works too, by May at the latest (Gardeners’ World). In cold regions, plant dormant bare-root plants in early spring (Utah State).
Cold-stored runners are sold from late spring to early summer and fruit about 60 days after planting. Plant them straight away (RHS).
Buying. Bare-root runners in late summer to autumn or early spring; pot plants for longer (RHS).
- Late summer to early autumn is ideal.
- Spring by May.
- Cold-stored runners fruit in 60 days.
Alpine strawberries from seed
Alpine strawberries are the practical type to grow from seed; named cultivars don’t come true (RHS, Oregon State). Germination can be slow and patchy.
-
Sow
In spring or autumn, thinly on seed compost, lightly covered with sand (RHS).
-
Keep warm
At about 18 °C (64 °F) until they germinate (RHS).
-
Prick out
Into small pots once large enough to handle (RHS).
-
Plant out
Once they have a good root system. They often fruit in their first year (RHS).
How to plant strawberries
Planting depth is important (RHS).
-
Lay membrane (optional)
Biodegradable membrane, pinned down, suppresses weeds, holds moisture and keeps soil off the fruit. Plant through holes cut in it (RHS).
-
Water the hole
Dig a hole big enough for the roots and water it (RHS).
-
Spread the roots
Trim bare roots to 10 cm (4 in) if needed, remove dead leaves, and spread the roots out (RHS, Utah State).
-
Set the crown at soil level
The base of the crown rests on the surface: too deep and it rots, too shallow and it dries out (RHS).
-
Space the plants
35 to 40 cm (14 to 16 in) apart in rows about 75 cm (30 in) apart (RHS).
-
Firm and water
Firm gently with your fingers and water well; keep watering for the first few weeks (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
Care
Water the soil not the plants, feed with potash, mulch with straw, and tidy up after fruiting.
Plants crop well for three or four years, then fruit size and quality fall (Gardeners’ World).
Care by season
Late winter
Early crops: cover in February
Mulch with compost, clear of the crowns. See feeding and mulching.
Flowering
Frost: fleece overnight
Feed pot plants with potash; cover on frosty nights. See growing conditions.
Fruit forming
Straw: under fruit
Tuck straw under the fruit and net. See pests.
After fruiting
Runners: late summer
Cut back summer-fruiting types, clear straw, root runners. See tidying up.
Every 3 to 4 years
Replant: fresh ground
Start a new bed elsewhere. See propagation.
Watering strawberries
Strawberries have shallow roots and a high water demand (Utah State).
How much. Established plants need about 2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1½ in) a week in the growing season (Oregon State). Water new plants regularly while they establish, and all plants in long dry spells (RHS).
How. At the base, keeping the crowns and fruit dry, in the morning; wet fruit invites grey mould (RHS, Gardeners’ World). Drip lines or soaker hoses are ideal (Utah State).
Not too much. Let the soil dry a little between waterings to avoid root rot (Utah State).
Containers, and especially hanging baskets, need watering often (RHS).
Feeding and mulching
Strawberries need relatively little fertiliser (Utah State).
In the ground. In well-mulched soil, plants rarely need more. If harvests are poor, apply a high-potassium granular fertiliser in spring (RHS). Gardeners’ World feeds with a high-potash liquid such as tomato feed every week or two from early spring.
In containers. Every fortnight in the growing season: a general liquid feed, then a high-potassium feed once flower buds form (RHS).
Mulch with well-rotted organic matter in late winter or early spring, keeping it off the crowns (RHS).
Straw. As fruits start to form, tuck straw under them to keep them clean and dry; remove it in autumn, when it harbours disease and slugs (RHS).
Flowers, runners and tidying up
First flowers. Remove the first flush from perpetuals planted in spring, and from summer types only if they are weak (RHS). Leave the flowers on cold-stored runners.
Runners. Remove any you don’t need, so plants put their energy into fruit (RHS). On potted and hanging-basket plants, remove them all (Oregon State).
After fruiting. Cut the old leaves of summer-fruiting varieties to about 10 cm (4 in) above the crowns so fresh ones grow (RHS), then feed. Perpetuals only need dead and diseased leaves removed.
Clear up. Take away old straw and netting so birds can clean up pests (Gardeners’ World).
Renew. Replant every three or four years in a new spot (RHS).
Strawberries in containers
Strawberries grow well in pots, growing bags, window boxes and hanging baskets, away from soil diseases and slugs (RHS, Gardeners’ World). Perpetual and day-neutral varieties suit containers best (Oregon State).
Container. At least 30 cm (12 in) across and 25 to 45 cm (10 to 18 in) deep for several plants (Oregon State), spaced about 20 cm (8 in) apart (RHS). A growing bag takes six to eight plants (Gardeners’ World).
Compost. Peat-free multi-purpose or loam-based, with the crown level with the surface (RHS).
Care. Water often and feed fortnightly. Avoid dark pots in full sun, which heat the roots (Utah State). Vine weevil is a greater threat in containers (RHS).
Earlier crops under cover
Unheated greenhouse or cold frame. Move potted plants in during February for fruit about two weeks early (RHS).
Cloches or fleece over rows outdoors give fruit at least a week early (RHS).
Pollination. Open covers during the day while plants are flowering so insects can reach them, or pollinate with a soft paintbrush (RHS).
Water covered plants regularly, keeping the compost slightly moist (RHS).
Problems
Birds, slugs, grey mould, frost and vine weevil are the main troubles.
Common strawberry problems
Frost, wet fruit, and old or crowded plants cause many losses.
Flowers with black centres
- Frost
"Black eye" frost damage: those flowers won’t fruit (RHS). Cover plants on frosty nights.
Small berries, poor crops
- Old plants
- Crowding
- Virus
Plants over three or four years old, or crowded by runners (Gardeners’ World, Utah State). Replant with healthy stock.
Weak, stunted plants
- Virus
- Root rot
Viruses have no cure: remove old plants and start again with certified stock (Utah State).
Yellow between leaf veins
- Iron chlorosis
Common on alkaline soils (Utah State). Check the pH.
Leaf scorch and stunting
- Salt
- Overfeeding
Salty soil or too much fertiliser (Utah State).
More problems with strawberries
Common pests
Birds and squirrels
Net before berries ripen, over a framework of canes, with netting taut and secure so wildlife can’t get tangled; chicken wire stops squirrels. Or grow in a fruit cage (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
Slugs and snails
Eat ripening fruit. Straw or mats under the fruit help (Gardeners’ World).
Vine weevil
Larvae eat the roots, especially in containers. Biological controls keep them in check (RHS).
Spotted wing drosophila
A small fly whose larvae feed inside ripening fruit (RHS). Fine exclusion netting keeps it out (Oregon State).
Common diseases
Grey mould (botrytis)
Fuzzy grey rot on the fruit. Keep fruit and crowns dry, water in the morning, use straw, and pick often (RHS, Utah State).
Verticillium wilt
A soil-borne disease that enters through the roots (RHS). Avoid ground used for potatoes, tomatoes or peppers, and grow resistant varieties (Utah State).
Root and crown rots
In wet, poorly drained soil. Plant in well-drained ground or raised beds, water carefully, and start with clean plants (Utah State).
Viruses
Poor vigour and low yield (RHS). No cure: replace plants.
More problems with strawberries
Harvest & Use
Pick fully red berries every other day, and eat them soon.
Harvesting strawberries
Summer-fruiting strawberries ripen from early June to early August; perpetuals into autumn (RHS).
When. Bright red all over: they don’t ripen further once picked (RHS, Gardeners’ World). Pick every other day; over-ripe fruit attracts pests and rot (Utah State).
How. Pinch through the stalk with finger and thumb so you don’t bruise the berry (Gardeners’ World). Use shallow containers no more than 7.5 cm (3 in) deep (Utah State).
Time of day. The RHS picks in the warmest part of the day for flavour; Utah State picks in the cool morning for shelf life.
- Red all over.
- Every other day.
- Pinch the stalk.
Storing and using strawberries
Eat them as soon as you can: they don’t keep long once ripe (RHS).
Fridge. Chill quickly, unwashed, in a vented bag or the crisper; wash and hull just before eating (Utah State). They keep a few days (Gardeners’ World).
Freezing. They lose their shape when thawed but are fine in smoothies and desserts (RHS).
Jam. Summer-fruiting varieties give a big crop at once, ideal for jam and freezing (Oregon State).
Propagation
Rooting runners for a fresh bed.
New plants from runners
Strawberries send out runners: long stems with plantlets that root where they touch soil (Oregon State). Late summer is the time to root them (RHS).
Choose healthy runners from strong plants, each with one or more leaves (Gardeners’ World).
Peg down each plantlet into a small pot of compost sunk beside the parent, with a U-shaped wire about 15 cm (6 in) long. Keep the compost moist (RHS).
Sever the link to the parent once the new plant has rooted strongly, then plant it out or pot it on (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
Only from healthy plants. Runners from an old, virus-infected bed carry the problem with them (Utah State). Perpetuals make few runners, so buy new plants (RHS).
More to Explore
Quick answers, guides that pair well with strawberries, and the sources behind this one.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to plant strawberries?
Late summer to early autumn, or in spring by May. See when to plant.
How deep should I plant strawberries?
With the base of the crown resting on the soil surface. See planting.
Should I remove strawberry runners?
Remove the ones you don’t need to root, especially on potted plants. See tidying up.
Why put straw under strawberries?
It keeps the fruit clean and dry, and off the damp soil.
How long do strawberry plants last?
They crop well for three or four years; then replace them. See propagation.
Can I grow strawberries in pots?
Yes, perpetual varieties especially. See containers.
How do I stop birds eating my strawberries?
Net them before they ripen, keeping the netting taut. See pests.
Why are my strawberries rotting?
Often grey mould from wet fruit; root and crown rots are other causes. See diseases.
Related guides
Sources
- How to grow strawberries (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
- Growing strawberries in your home garden (EC 1307) (opens in a new tab) Oregon State University Extension Service
- Strawberries in the garden (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension
- Strawberries (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- How to grow strawberries (opens in a new tab) BBC Gardeners’ World