Overview
What grapes need, when they crop, and whether they suit your garden.
A grapevine can crop for decades, but only if you prune it hard: most years you cut away 80 to 90% of last year’s growth. Fruit comes on shoots from one-year-old canes, so winter pruning sets next summer’s crop. Pick a variety hardy enough for your winters, give it sun and a solid support, and be patient for three years.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Vitis spp.
- Soil pH
- 5.5 – 6.5
- Feeding
- Light feeder
- Hardiness
- USDA zone 6a and warmer
- Propagation
- Cutting, Grafting
Survives −21 °C
Growing details
- Frost sensitivity
- Frost hardy
Growing calendar
- Plant out: January, February, March, April, November, December
- Prune: January, February, March
- Harvest: August, September, October
Dormant vines, November to early March (RHS); in cold US winters, early spring. After the coldest weather, before the buds swell. Late summer to mid-autumn, by variety and weather.
Is this plant right for you?
- Long-lived
- Needs a strong support
- Hard winter pruning
- Full sun
- Pergola or wall
- First crop in year 3
- Harmful to dogs
Toxic to pets
Grapes and raisins are harmful to dogs if eaten (RHS, ASPCA).
Before You Grow
Choose a variety for your winters and use, and the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have.
Grapes and raisins are harmful to dogs: fallen fruit from a garden vine is within reach.
What you need
A vine suited to your climate
Grafted or on its own roots, potted or bare-root. See choose your grapes.
Full sun and shelter
A south-facing wall or open, sunny site out of frost pockets. See where they grow best.
A strong support
Posts and heavy galvanised wire, a pergola, arbor or wall wires. See how to plant.
Sharp secateurs and loppers
For the annual winter prune. See pruning and training.
Soft twine or ties
To tie trunk and canes to the wires.
Bird netting
To protect the ripening crop. See pests.
Choose your grapes
Pick for your winters first, then for use: dessert (table) grapes to eat, or wine grapes. Seedless varieties are the usual choice for eating.
American types (from Vitis labrusca, such as ‘Concord’ and ‘Niagara’) are the hardiest; Penn State finds ‘Concord’ and ‘Niagara’ thrive in most of Pennsylvania. Their slip skins separate from the flesh. They resist phylloxera, a root louse, on their own roots.
French-American hybrids and American hybrids combine hardiness with better quality: UMD recommends seedless ‘Canadice’, ‘Himrod’, ‘Jupiter’, ‘Mars’, ‘Neptune’, ‘Reliance’ and ‘Vanessa’.
European grapes (Vitis vinifera), the classic wine and dessert grapes, are the least hardy and most disease-prone, and in phylloxera areas they must be grafted onto a resistant rootstock (Penn State). In the UK most dessert grapes need a greenhouse; RHS AGM varieties include ‘Lakemont’, ‘Schuyler’ and ‘Sovereign Coronation’.
Muscadines (Vitis rotundifolia) are southern US natives, not reliably hardy further north (UMD).
Grape types compared
-
American (V. labrusca)
- Cold hardiness
- Hardiest
- Disease
- Fairly resistant
- Best for
- Juice, jelly, eating; slip skins
-
American hybrids
- Cold hardiness
- Very hardy
- Disease
- Some resistance
- Best for
- Seedless eating grapes
-
French-American hybrids
- Cold hardiness
- To about -21 °C (-5 °F)
- Disease
- Moderate
- Best for
- Wine and eating
-
European (V. vinifera)
- Cold hardiness
- To about -18 °C (0 °F)
- Disease
- Susceptible
- Best for
- Wine and dessert; greenhouse in cool climates
-
Muscadine
- Cold hardiness
- Tender
- Disease
- Resistant in the south
- Best for
- Warm, humid southern gardens
Hardiness from Penn State; the rest from UMD and the RHS. Where winters are cold, start with a hardy American or hybrid seedless variety.
Where grapes grow best
Grapes need a warm, sunny, sheltered site. Sun ripens the fruit, and good air flow keeps disease down.
Sun. Full sun. Early morning sun dries the leaves sooner and reduces disease (UMD).
Warmth. In the UK, dessert grapes need a greenhouse or a very warm wall; wine grapes crop outdoors in mild areas (RHS). Tender varieties need a season of 160 or more frost-free days (Penn State).
Cold. European vinifera grapes take about -18 °C (0 °F), French hybrids about -21 °C (-5 °F) (Penn State); American types are hardier still.
Frost pockets. Avoid low spots where cold air settles: late spring frosts kill new shoots (RHS, UMD).
Air. Shelter from strong winds, but don’t crowd vines: overcrowding means disease, weak plants and low yields (UMD).
- Hardy hybrids
- To about -21 °C (-5 °F)
- Frost-free days
- 160+ for tender varieties
- Sun
- Full sun; morning sun dries leaves
Soil
Grapes have deep roots and need soil that drains well; they don’t need rich soil.
pH. 5.5 to 6.5 (UMD). Test the soil and amend it before planting, ideally the year before (Penn State).
Preparation. On decent soil, little is needed. On poor soil or beside a wall, mix a bucketful of garden compost into the soil you backfill with (RHS). Clear perennial weeds first.
Not too fertile. Rich soil and heavy feeding give rank, leafy canes that don’t ripen or fruit well and suffer in cold winters (Illinois).
Planting
Plant dormant vines in winter or early spring, with the support built first.
A vine lives 20 years or more on the same support. Build the trellis to last before you plant.
When to plant grapes
Plant vines while they are dormant.
In mild climates, from November to early March (RHS). Bare-root vines are sold only in this season; potted vines most of the year.
In cold winters, plant in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked (Illinois, Penn State, UMD), which also spares young vines winter damage.
Build the support first. It will carry the vine for 20 years or more (Illinois).
- Plant dormant vines.
- Early spring in cold climates.
- Put the support in first.
How to plant a grapevine
One strong trunk is the goal, so the first cut happens at planting.
-
Build the trellis
Two heavy galvanised wires at about 90 cm and 150 to 180 cm (3 and 5 to 6 ft), on sturdy posts about 6 to 7.5 m (20 to 25 ft) apart (Utah State, Illinois). Or wires on a sunny wall, or a pergola. Avoid chain-link fences: canes tangle in them.
-
Prepare the roots
Soak bare-root vines, and trim long or broken roots to 15 to 30 cm (6 to 12 in) (Penn State).
-
Plant at the right depth
Spread the roots in the hole. Bare-root vines go with their top roots just below the surface; potted vines at their pot depth. Keep any graft union above the soil.
-
Space the vines
1.2 to 1.5 m (4 to 5 ft) apart on wall wires (RHS); 2.4 m (8 ft) apart in rows 3 m (10 ft) apart on a trellis (Illinois). At least 20 cm (8 in) from a wall (RHS).
-
Cut back
Prune to a single stem with two or three buds (Illinois, Penn State).
-
Stake and water
Tie the young vine to a stake, and water during dry spells in its first season.
Care
Train the vine for three years, then prune hard every winter and thin the crop in summer.
Fruit grows only on shoots from last year’s canes. Winter pruning chooses those canes.
Care by year and season
Year 1
Water: in dry spells · Weed: shallowly
Keep the strongest shoot as the trunk and tie it up; remove all flowers. See pruning and training.
Year 2
Build: the permanent frame
Train the trunk to the top wire and start the arms; still no fruit.
Year 3
Fruit: a few bunches only
A first small crop, about three bunches (RHS). See thinning.
Every winter
Prune: before buds swell
Prune while dormant, removing 80 to 90% of last year’s growth.
Every summer
Mulch: late winter · Feed: only if needed
Pinch out extra shoots, thin bunches, net against birds. See harvesting.
Watering and mulching
Grapes have deep roots and, once established, rarely need watering in the ground.
Young vines. Water in dry spells in the first growing season (RHS).
Walls and fences cast a rain shadow: vines there may need water in dry weather.
Greenhouse and pots. Water regularly through the growing season.
Mulch. In late winter or early spring, 5 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 in) of compost, kept off the stem. On heavy, wet or very fertile soils, Illinois warns that mulch can make growth too vigorous.
Feeding grapes
Feed lightly: moderate vigour gives the best fruit (Illinois).
In mulched soil, vines rarely need feeding (RHS). If crops are poor or leaves show deficiency, give an organic granular fertiliser in early spring.
Young vines in poor soil. Illinois builds up from about 55 g (2 oz) of 10-10-10 after planting to 450 g (1 lb) per vine from the fourth year, split between March, May and July.
Greenhouse and pot vines. A high-potassium liquid feed every two to three weeks from a month after growth starts; stop once the grapes colour, or the flavour suffers (RHS).
Too vigorous? Leave out nitrogen for a year (Penn State).
Pruning and training
Grapes fruit on shoots that grow from one-year-old canes. An unpruned vine carries 500 or more buds and makes masses of small, poor, sour bunches (Iowa State), so each winter you remove 80 to 90% of last year’s growth.
When. While dormant, after the coldest weather and before the buds swell: February to early March in Illinois; in early winter in the UK (RHS). Pruned in spring, vines bleed sap; it does them no harm. Wear gloves: the sap irritates some skin (UMD).
Training the frame. Year 1: keep the strongest shoot as the trunk. Year 2: take it to the top wire and train two arms, one each way. From year 3, fruiting canes grow from the arms (Illinois, Utah State).
Spur pruning (high cordon): cut each cane on the arms back to a spur of two to four buds, spaced about 15 cm (6 in) apart. Cane pruning (Kniffin): keep new fruiting canes of about 10 buds each year plus two-bud renewal spurs; it suits cold climates (Utah State).
How many buds. About 40 to 60 on a mature vine, fewer on weak ones and French hybrids (Illinois, Iowa State). Keep dark, pencil-thick canes; they are the hardiest and most fruitful.
Summer. Pinch out unwanted shoots, remove leaves that shade the fruit late in the season, and thin bunches: no more than two per shoot (UMD). Thinning grapes within dense bunches improves size and air flow.
Grapes in containers
Where space is tight, grow a vine in a large pot, trained as a standard: one straight stem with a rounded head (RHS).
Pot. At least 30 cm (12 in) wide and deep, with soil-based peat-free compost.
Position. Your warmest, sunniest spot, or a greenhouse or conservatory. Vines need a cool spell to fruit: in a heated greenhouse, stand the pot outside for four to six weeks in winter.
Care. Water regularly in the growing season and feed as for greenhouse vines.
Problems
Birds, wasps, fungal diseases and weedkiller drift all cause trouble.
Common grape problems
Many grape problems come from pruning, site or neighbours’ sprays rather than pests.
Lots of leaves, few grapes
- Pruning
- Vigour
Too little pruning or too much fertiliser. Prune hard in winter and feed less. See pruning and training.
Small, sour, poorly filled bunches
- Overcropping
Too many buds left, so too many bunches. Leave fewer buds, fewer still on weak vines and French hybrids, and thin to two bunches per shoot. See pruning.
Crop every other year
- Pruning
Irregular or light pruning can set up biennial bearing (UMD). Prune hard every year.
New shoots blackened in spring
- Frost
Late frost. Secondary buds usually grow and give a smaller crop (UMD). Avoid frost pockets.
Twisted, fan-shaped leaves and tendrils
- Weedkiller
Grapes are very sensitive to 2,4-D lawn weedkillers, which can drift 0.8 to 1.6 km (½ to 1 mile). Don’t use them near vines (Illinois).
No fruit on a young vine
- Age
Normal for two years: the RHS removes flowers so the vine establishes. Expect a small crop in year three.
More problems with grapes
Common pests
Birds
Take ripening grapes. Net vines, holding the netting taut above the fruit on canes (RHS).
Wasps
Feed on ripe and split fruit late in the season. Pick promptly and remove damaged bunches.
Japanese beetles
Metallic green beetles that skeletonise leaves in midsummer in the eastern US (Penn State). Hand-pick.
Grape berry moth
Larvae feed inside berries, tying them together with silk (Penn State). Penn State times control with pheromone traps and checks for damaged berries.
Phylloxera
A tiny root louse that kills European vines on their own roots. Grow American types or vines grafted onto resistant rootstocks.
More problems with grapes
Common diseases
Choosing a resistant variety, pruning for air flow and clearing debris all help. Black rot is serious on susceptible vines; ask your local extension service whether preventative sprays are needed where you live (UMD, Penn State).
Black rot
Reddish-brown leaf spots, then berries that shrivel into hard black mummies. A serious disease in the eastern US; it overwinters in mummified fruit, so remove every mummy and all prunings in winter (Penn State, UMD).
Powdery mildew
White powdery coating on leaves and fruit, common under glass and in dry weather. Improve air flow and thin bunches.
Downy mildew
Yellow patches on leaves with white growth beneath, in damp weather. Keep leaves dry and the canopy open.
Grey mould
Fuzzy grey rot in dense bunches, especially in humid greenhouses. Ventilate and thin the berries.
Harvest & Use
Taste to tell when they’re ripe: grapes don’t ripen after picking.
Harvesting grapes
Grapes ripen from late summer to mid-autumn, depending on variety and weather.
Taste them. Colour is not a reliable guide. Ripe grapes feel soft and taste sweet; white grapes turn from deep green to translucent yellow with thinner skins (RHS). Pick only when they are at their sweetest: grapes don’t ripen after picking.
How. Cut the whole bunch with its stalk, using secateurs.
Young vines. Two years without fruit, then about three bunches in year three and five in year four, before a full crop (RHS).
- Taste to judge ripeness.
- Cut whole bunches with the stalk.
- No ripening after picking.
Storing and using grapes
Most grapes are best eaten fresh, soon after picking. Some varieties keep much longer: UMD finds ‘Reliance’ stores for up to three months.
Handling. Cut whole bunches carefully.
Using them. Eat fresh, or make juice, jelly and raisins; wine grapes are small and seedy for eating but make wine.
Propagation
New vines from hardwood cuttings taken in winter.
Propagating grapes
Grapes root readily from hardwood cuttings taken while the vine is dormant (Penn State, RHS).
Collect pencil-thick canes from last season’s growth that grew in full sun, during winter pruning.
Store them cool and damp until spring, marking which end is the top: cuttings planted upside down won’t root.
Plant in spring with two nodes below the surface, in a pot or nursery bed, and keep moist. Roots form in about four weeks; transplant the following spring (Penn State).
Grafted vines. European grapes in phylloxera areas need grafting onto resistant rootstock, which is a job for a nursery.
More to Explore
Quick answers, guides that pair well with grapes, and the sources behind this one.
Frequently asked questions
How long until a grapevine fruits?
A small crop in the third year and a full one by about the fifth. See harvesting.
When should I prune grapes?
In winter, while dormant, before the buds swell. See pruning and training.
How much should I prune a grapevine?
Hard: about 80 to 90% of last year’s growth. See pruning for how many buds to leave.
Do grapes need a trellis?
They need a strong support: a trellis, pergola, arbor or wall wires.
Which grapes are hardiest?
American types and their hybrids. European vinifera grapes are the most tender. See choose your grapes.
Do I need two grapevines?
No: grapes are self-fruitful, though bees improve the crop (UMD).
Can I grow grapes in a pot?
Yes, as a standard in a pot at least 30 cm (12 in) wide and deep. See containers.
Why are my grapes small and sour?
Usually too many bunches from light pruning. See common problems.
Are grapes poisonous to dogs?
Yes: grapes and raisins can cause kidney damage in dogs (ASPCA).
Related guides
Sources
- How to grow grapes (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
- People foods to avoid feeding your pets (opens in a new tab) ASPCA Animal Poison Control
- Growing grapes in a home garden (opens in a new tab) University of Maryland Extension
- Planting and care of backyard grapes (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- Pruning and training of grape vines (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- Backyard grape growing (opens in a new tab) Penn State Extension
- Pruning hydrangeas (opens in a new tab) Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
- Grape trellising and training basics (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension