Overview
What lavender needs, when it flowers, and whether it suits your garden.
Lavender rarely dies of cold: it dies of wet feet. Give it full sun and soil that drains fast, even gravelly, and it asks for almost nothing else: no feeding and little water once established. The one job is pruning every year, cutting back into green growth but never into bare wood, so it stays compact instead of turning leggy.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Lavandula angustifolia
- Soil pH
- 6.5 – 7.5
- Feeding
- Light feeder
- Hardiness
- USDA zone 5a and warmer
- Height
- Up to 90 cm (35 in)
- Propagation
- Cutting, Seed
Survives −28 °C
Growing details
- Spacing
- 45 cm (18 in)
- Frost sensitivity
- Frost hardy
Growing calendar
- Plant out: April, May, September
- Flowering: June, July, August
- Prune: April, August, September
- Propagate: July, August, September
April or May (RHS); early autumn where two months of mild weather follow (Utah State). Summer; English lavender often flowers twice. A light spring tidy as new growth shows; the main cut after flowering. Cuttings of non-flowering shoots after flowering.
Is this plant right for you?
- Full sun
- Drought tolerant
- Needs sharp drainage
- Loved by bees
- Good in pots
- Low hedge or edging
- Toxic to pets
Toxic to pets
Toxic to dogs, cats and horses if eaten: nausea, vomiting (not in horses) and loss of appetite (ASPCA).
Before You Grow
Choose a type hardy enough for your winters, and the sunniest, driest spot you have.
Lavender is toxic to dogs, cats and horses if eaten (ASPCA).
What you need
Young plants
Grown from cuttings, so they come true. See choose your lavender.
Full sun
Around eight hours a day. See where it grows best.
Sharply drained soil
Grit, a mound or a raised bed on heavy soil. See soil.
Shears or secateurs
For the yearly prune. See pruning.
A terracotta pot, optionally
30 to 40 cm (12 to 16 in) across. See containers.
String
For bunching flowers to dry. See harvesting and drying.
Choose your lavender
Lavenders differ most in hardiness, so choose for your winters first.
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the hardiest and longest-lived, hardy to USDA zone 5 (Utah State, Colorado State). Compact varieties include ‘Hidcote’ (deep purple, silver leaves), ‘Munstead’, ‘Little Lottie’ at about 30 cm (1 ft) and ‘Lady Ann’ (pale pink). It often flowers twice.
Lavandins (L. × intermedia), hybrids of English and spike lavender, are bigger and more robust, with long spikes and a strong scent: ‘Grosso’, ‘Provence’ and ‘Phenomenal’, which tolerates heat and humidity (Illinois). They are sterile and grown only from cuttings.
French and Spanish lavenders (L. stoechas and relatives) have tufts or ‘ears’ on the flower heads and a long season, but are half-hardy. Grow them in pots and move them somewhere frost-free for winter. Gardeners’ World suggests them for acid soil.
Tender lavenders (L. dentata, L. canariensis and others) need a frost-free greenhouse in winter (RHS).
Lavender types compared
-
English (L. angustifolia)
- Hardiness
- Hardy; to zone 5
- Height
- 30 to 90 cm (1 to 3 ft)
- Notes
- Hardiest; ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’
-
Lavandin (L. × intermedia)
- Hardiness
- Hardy; more robust
- Height
- Up to 90 cm (3 ft)
- Notes
- Long spikes; sterile; ‘Grosso’, ‘Phenomenal’
-
French and Spanish (L. stoechas)
- Hardiness
- Half-hardy
- Height
- Compact
- Notes
- Eared flowers, long season; overwinter under cover
-
Tender (L. dentata and others)
- Hardiness
- Frost-tender
- Height
- Varies
- Notes
- Short-lived; greenhouse in winter
From the RHS, Gardeners’ World and US extensions. For a long-lived garden plant in cold winters, English lavender; for heat and humidity, a lavandin such as ‘Phenomenal’.
Where lavender grows best
Lavender is a Mediterranean plant: it needs lots of sun, fast drainage and good air flow, and won’t survive long in shady, damp conditions (RHS).
Sun. Full sun, around eight hours a day (Illinois).
Wet, not cold, kills it. Illinois finds dampness more than cold is what kills lavender. English lavender is hardy to zone 5 in dry soil (and zone 4 with mulch and a south-facing spot, Utah State), but in the wet British winter Gardeners’ World puts hardy lavenders’ limit at about -15 °C (5 °F).
Air. Don’t crowd plants: humidity and poor air circulation cause disease (Illinois).
Tender types need a sheltered spot, or a pot that can come under cover.
- Sun
- Full sun, about 8 hours
- English lavender
- Hardy to USDA zone 5 in dry soil
- Soil
- Sharply drained; never wet in winter
Soil and drainage
Lavender prefers poor, dry or moderately fertile soil, including chalky and alkaline soil, and will not thrive in heavy clay or waterlogged ground (RHS).
pH. 6.5 to 7.5 (Utah State); slightly alkaline suits it. On acid soil, try French lavender.
Improve drainage. On heavy soil, plant on a mound or ridge 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 in) high, or in a raised bed (RHS, Illinois), and mix grit into the planting hole. Colorado State works 2.5 cm (1 in) of small bark into the top 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in).
Little organic matter. Rich soil gives soft, leafy growth that dies back in winter.
Planting
Plant in spring, at the same depth, into sharply drained soil or a mound.
Never plant lavender in winter: young plants rot in cold, wet soil (RHS).
When to plant lavender
Spring is safest: April or May, as the soil warms (RHS). In the US, after the last spring frost (Utah State).
Autumn works where at least two months of good weather follow, so roots establish before winter (Utah State); Colorado State finds autumn-planted lavender establishes faster and flowers more the next year.
Never in winter. Young plants rot in cold, wet soil (RHS).
- Spring is safest.
- Autumn only with two good months ahead.
- Never in winter.
Growing lavender from seed
Possible but slow: 100 to 200 days to a plant ready to go out, and English lavender varies from seed (Utah State, Colorado State).
-
Choose a seed variety
Such as ‘Mini Blue’, which grows fairly uniform from seed (Illinois), or ‘Lady’ (Utah State).
-
Sow shallowly
About 3 mm (⅛ in) deep in seed compost, lightly covered with perlite (Utah State).
-
Keep warm and moist
Around 21 °C (70 °F); seedlings appear in 14 to 21 days.
-
Grow on
Pot on and grow in bright light until big enough to plant out after the last frost.
How to plant lavender
Fast drainage and good air flow from the start.
-
Prepare the spot
Full sun; add grit or plant on a mound if the soil is heavy. See soil and drainage.
-
Plant at the same depth
As in the pot, no deeper.
-
Space them out
45 to 60 cm (18 to 24 in) apart (Utah State), or 30 cm (1 ft) for a hedge, 45 cm (18 in) for larger varieties (RHS). Crowding encourages disease.
-
Water in
And keep watering regularly through the first season.
-
Mulch with gravel
A light mulch of gravel or bark keeps weeds down without holding wet against the stems (Utah State).
Care
Water only while it establishes, don’t feed, and prune every year.
Never cut back into bare, leafless wood: it rarely regrows.
Care through the year
Spring
Prune: lightly, to green leaves
As new green growth appears, trim off winter damage and dead tips. See pruning.
Early summer
Feed: none
Water only young plants and pots in dry spells. See watering.
Flowering
Harvest: in the morning
Cut stems to dry as the first flowers open. See harvesting and drying.
Late summer
Prune: by a third to a half · Cuttings: non-flowering shoots
The main prune after flowering; take cuttings.
Winter
Protect: from wet, not cold
Keep plants dry; move tender types under cover.
Watering lavender
Established lavender is drought-tolerant; overwatering does far more harm than drought.
First year. Water regularly, especially in dry weather, while roots establish (RHS). Utah State gives about 4 litres (1 gallon) per plant a week until established.
Established plants. Water only when the soil dries out (Illinois). In hot, dry climates, Utah State waters about 2 litres (½ gallon) every two weeks, and once or twice a week while flowering.
Pots. Once or twice a week in hot summer weather, when the compost begins to dry (RHS).
Never let water stand around the plants: it invites root rot.
Feeding lavender
Don’t feed lavender. It has low nutritional needs, and fertiliser gives more leaves, fewer flowers, and growth prone to disease and winter damage (Utah State, Illinois).
At planting, a little compost worked into the soil is enough for the first year (Utah State). Gardeners’ World adds a sprinkle of bonemeal to the planting hole.
Pruning lavender
Pruning every year keeps lavender compact, flowering well and long-lived. Unpruned, or only deadheaded, it turns woody and leggy, splits open, and dies young (Gardeners’ World).
The golden rule. Cut back into leafy growth, but never into bare, leafless wood: it rarely regrows (Gardeners’ World, Colorado State).
After flowering, in August or September, shear the whole plant back by a third to a half, keeping green leaves on every stem (Illinois, Utah State). This may bring a second flush.
In spring, as new green growth appears at the base, trim off winter damage, dead tips and old flower stalks (Colorado State, UMD).
French and Spanish lavenders: prune after the first flush fades, no later than early September. Tender types only when scruffy.
Rescuing an old plant. In mid-August, cut to just above any green shoots. If none appear within a month, replace it.
Lavender in containers
Lavender grows well in pots, and pots are the best way to grow half-hardy types.
Pot. 30 to 40 cm (12 to 16 in) across, ideally terracotta with drainage holes (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
Compost. Peat-free multi-purpose or loam-based (John Innes No. 2 or 3), with coarse grit mixed in, up to a quarter by volume.
Position. Full sun, away from overhanging trees.
Care. Water once or twice a week in hot weather when the compost dries. Repot permanent pot plants into a slightly larger pot each spring (Utah State).
Problems
Wet soil, root rot and neglected pruning cause almost every failure.
Common lavender problems
Lavender has few pests or diseases. Nearly every failure comes back to wet soil or pruning.
Plant dying over winter
- Wet soil
- Root rot
Usually waterlogged or heavy soil; tender and half-hardy types can also be killed by cold. Improve drainage, plant on a mound or in a pot, and don’t overwater.
Leggy, woody and split open
- Pruning
Lack of annual pruning. See pruning; very old plants are best replaced.
Lots of leaves, few flowers
- Too rich
- Shade
Fertiliser, rich soil or too little sun. Stop feeding and move it to full sun.
Soft growth that dies back in winter
- Clay
- Feeding
Heavy clay soil or overfeeding makes soft growth (Illinois).
Plants short-lived
- Type
Hardy types live 10 to 15 years or more with good pruning; tender types about five (Gardeners’ World).
More problems with lavender
Common pests
Deer
May browse or trample plants in some areas (Utah State, Colorado State).
Grasshoppers
Heavy infestations can reduce flowering but won’t kill established plants (Utah State).
Common diseases
Root rot (Phytophthora)
Lavender is susceptible to Phytophthora root rot in wet soil (Utah State, Colorado State). Don’t overwater, and don’t let water stand around plants.
Xylella fastidiosa
A serious bacterial disease; lavender is a high-risk host (RHS). Buy healthy plants from reputable, preferably local, suppliers.
Harvest & Use
Cut stems as the first flowers open, and dry them in bunches.
Harvesting and drying lavender
When. Cut stems as the first flowers on the spike begin to open: the scent is strongest then (Illinois, UMD), and they dry best before fully open (Colorado State).
Time of day. In the morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat, so the oils don’t dissipate (Utah State).
How. Cut the stems as long as possible. Bundle them in small bunches with a rubber band, which tightens as the stems shrink.
Drying. Hang the bunches upside down somewhere cool, dark, dry and airy (Colorado State, Illinois).
- Cut as the first flowers open.
- In the morning, once dry.
- Dry in the dark, upside down.
Using lavender
Dried flowers keep their scent for sachets, potpourri and crafts. Store them in containers with tight lids somewhere cool, dark and dry (Utah State).
In the kitchen, use lavender sparingly: a little goes a long way in drinks, baking, and pork, fish or chicken dishes (Illinois).
In the garden, leave some flowers for the bees: bees are thought to prefer English lavender (Gardeners’ World).
Propagation
New plants from cuttings, which come true; seed doesn’t.
Taking lavender cuttings
Cuttings give plants identical to the parent; English lavender doesn’t come true from seed, and lavandins are sterile (Colorado State).
When. Just after flowering, from late summer (Colorado State, Gardeners’ World).
Choose non-flowering shoots about 10 cm (4 in) long, with a woody base and soft new tip.
Prepare. Strip the leaves from the lower half.
Pot. Push them 1 to 2 cm (½ to ¾ in) into pots of free-draining compost or vermiculite; rooting hormone is optional: Colorado State doesn’t use it, Utah State does. Cover with a clear bag and keep bright but out of direct sun.
Label each pot with the variety.
More to Explore
Quick answers, related guides, and the sources behind this one.
Frequently asked questions
Why did my lavender die over winter?
Usually wet soil for hardy types; cold kills tender ones. See soil and drainage.
When should I prune lavender?
Mainly after flowering, by a third to a half, plus a light tidy in spring. See pruning.
Can I cut lavender back to the wood?
No: bare, leafless wood rarely regrows. Always leave green leaves.
Does lavender need feeding?
No. Feeding gives leaves instead of flowers and weaker plants.
How often should I water lavender?
Regularly in its first year, then only when the soil dries out.
Can lavender grow in pots?
Yes, in a 30 to 40 cm (12 to 16 in) pot of gritty compost. See containers.
When do I harvest lavender for drying?
As the first flowers on the spike open, in the morning. See harvesting and drying.
How long does lavender live?
Hardy types 10 to 15 years or more if pruned well; tender types about five.
Is lavender poisonous to pets?
Yes: the ASPCA lists it as toxic to dogs, cats and horses.
Related guides
Sources
- How to grow lavender (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
- Lavender (opens in a new tab) ASPCA Animal Poison Control
- English lavender in the garden (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension
- Growing lavender in Colorado (opens in a new tab) Colorado State University Extension
- Lavender (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- Essential tips for growing lavender in your backyard (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- Lavender (opens in a new tab) University of Maryland Extension
- How to grow lavender (opens in a new tab) BBC Gardeners’ World