The short version
A daily sprinkle wets the top two centimetres and nothing else, which teaches roots to stay at the surface where they dry out first. A thorough soak twice a week sends roots down to where the moisture lasts. The plant you want is the one that can look after itself for a few days.
What you need
A can with a rose, or a hose with a lance
A rose breaks the flow so it does not wash soil off roots.
Mulch
The cheapest watering equipment there is. A layer on the surface halves evaporation.
How to do it
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Check before you water
Push a finger in to the second knuckle. Damp at that depth means leave it.
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Water the soil, not the plant
Wet leaves overnight is how fungal disease starts. Aim at the base.
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Water slowly and thoroughly
Enough that it reaches the root zone, not just the surface. On a container, until it runs from the bottom.
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Water early or late
Midday watering loses much of it to evaporation before it reaches anything.
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Mulch afterwards
Mulch on damp soil keeps it damp. Mulch on dry soil keeps it dry, so get the order right.
When it goes wrong
Wilting in wet soil
- Roots
Root damage or rot, not thirst. Adding water makes it worse. Check drainage.
Fruit splitting
- Irregular watering
A dry spell followed by a soak. The fix is rhythm, not volume.
A dry crust that water runs off
- Compaction
- Mulch
Break the surface gently and water slowly. Mulch stops it forming again.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water?
There is no fixed answer: it depends on weather, soil and the plant. Check the soil rather than the calendar.
Is tap water alright?
For almost everything, yes. Rainwater is better for acid-loving plants in hard water areas.
How much do containers need?
Far more than beds, and in high summer often twice a day. A pot has no reserve to draw on.