Overview
What peas need, when they crop, and whether they suit your garden.
Peas are the first crop of spring: they germinate in cold soil and like cool weather, then stall once summer heat arrives. So sow early, give them twiggy sticks or netting to climb, and pick every day or two. The sugar in a freshly picked pea starts turning to starch within hours, which is why home-grown peas taste so much sweeter.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Pisum sativum
- Feeding
- Light feeder
- Temperature
- 13 – 18 °C
- Hardiness
- Any zone, as an annual
- Time to harvest
- 50 – 75 days
- Height
- Up to 200 cm (79 in)
- Propagation
- Seed
Optimal growth
Growing details
- Germination
- 6 – 17 days
- Spacing
- 5 cm (2 in)
- Sowing depth
- 38 mm (1.5 in)
- Frost sensitivity
- Frost hardy
Growing calendar
- Start indoors: February, March, October, November
- Sow outdoors: March, April, May, June, July
- Transplant: March, April
- Harvest: May, June, July, August, September, October
February or March for early crops; autumn sowings overwintered under cover (RHS). As soon as the soil can be worked, into early summer; heat-tolerant types for autumn. Module-raised plants at about 20 cm (8 in) tall. 50 to 75 days after sowing; about 12 to 16 weeks for UK maincrops.
Is this plant right for you?
- Early spring crop
- Frost hardy
- Needs support
- Beginner friendly
- Cool-season crop
- Fixes some nitrogen
- Pea shoots indoors
Good to know
Plan for support early: this plant needs a stake, cage or frame once it gets going. It stands frost, so it can go out earlier than tender crops.
Before You Grow
Choose shelling, mangetout or sugar snap, and a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil.
Mangetout and sugar snaps tend to crop the most (RHS).
What you need
Seed
Shelling, mangetout or sugar snap. See choose your peas.
Supports
Twiggy pea sticks, netting or a trellis. See planting and supports.
A sunny bed
Fertile and well-drained. See soil.
Guttering or deep modules
For an early start indoors, safe from mice. See sowing.
Fleece or fine mesh
Against pea moth and birds. See pests.
A watering can
Most needed once flowers and pods form. See watering.
Choose your peas
All are Pisum sativum, grown the same way; they differ in what you eat.
Shelling (garden or English) peas are shelled from inedible pods. Smooth-seeded varieties are hardier, for the earliest sowings; wrinkled-seeded ones are sweeter, for later sowings (RHS, Illinois). RHS AGM choices include ‘Hurst Green Shaft’ and ‘Kelvedon Wonder’, an early dwarf.
Mangetout (snow peas) have flat pods picked before the peas swell: ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’, ‘Delikata’.
Sugar snaps have thick, crunchy, rounded pods eaten whole with the peas: ‘Sugar Ann’, ‘Cascadia’, ‘Super Sugar Snap’. Mangetout and sugar snaps tend to crop the most (RHS).
Height. From dwarf varieties at 45 cm (18 in) to tall ones at 1.8 m (6 ft) or more. Tall varieties crop over a longer season (UMD).
Earlies and maincrops. First earlies crop in about 12 weeks from sowing, maincrops in 14 to 16 (RHS). Heat-tolerant varieties such as ‘Wando’ and ‘Lincoln’ suit warmer areas (Clemson).
Pea types compared
-
Shelling, smooth-seeded
- Eat
- Peas only
- Pick when
- Pods plump and well filled
- Examples
- Hardy; early sowings
-
Shelling, wrinkled-seeded
- Eat
- Peas only
- Pick when
- Pods plump and well filled
- Examples
- ‘Hurst Green Shaft’, ‘Green Arrow’
-
Mangetout (snow pea)
- Eat
- Whole flat pod
- Pick when
- Full length, still flat
- Examples
- ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’, ‘Delikata’
-
Sugar snap
- Eat
- Whole round pod
- Pick when
- Pods fattening, peas small
- Examples
- ‘Sugar Ann’, ‘Super Sugar Snap’
-
Marrowfat
- Eat
- Dried peas
- Pick when
- Fully mature and dry
- Examples
- For soups and mushy peas
From the RHS, Illinois and Utah State. For the biggest crop, a sugar snap or mangetout.
Where peas grow best
Peas are a cool-season crop that thrives in cool, moist weather (Illinois).
Temperature. They grow best at 13 to 18 °C (55 to 65 °F) (Iowa State). Above about 29 °C (85 °F) growth nearly stops, and warm nights make flowers drop.
Frost. Plants survive frost and light freezes, but the flowers and young pods don’t (Clemson, Iowa State).
Sun. Full sun, at least six hours a day (Iowa State). The RHS picks a warm, sunny, sheltered site.
Autumn crops are chancy in warm areas: seed germinates poorly in warm soil and frost often arrives before pods fill (UMD, Clemson).
- Best growth
- 13 to 18 °C (55 to 65 °F)
- Growth stops above
- About 29 °C (85 °F)
- Sow when soil is
- At least 4 °C (40 °F)
Soil
Peas like well-drained soil of average fertility (Iowa State); wet soil causes root rots.
Preparation. Weed, then fork in at least two bucketfuls of garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre a few weeks before sowing (RHS).
pH. 6.0 to 6.5 (Clemson); Penn State allows 5.8 to 7.0. UMD finds growth held back in acid soil below 6.0.
Heavy clay. A raised bed helps drainage (Clemson).
Planting
Sow as soon as the soil can be worked, and put supports in at sowing time.
Put supports in when you sow: adding them later damages the roots (Penn State).
When to sow peas
Sow as soon as the soil can be worked in spring, once it reaches about 4 °C (40 °F) (UMD, Utah State); Illinois waits for 7 °C (45 °F). Early sowings give the biggest crops.
In the UK, sow outdoors from March to early July (Gardeners’ World), in small batches every few weeks. Indoors in February or March for an early start, especially on cold, wet soil (RHS). Hardy varieties can be sown in autumn or late winter for crops from May, with some losses.
In the US, late March to mid-April in Iowa; sow up to three batches a week apart (Iowa State).
Autumn crop. Heat-tolerant varieties in late summer, allowing extra days before frost (Illinois).
- As soon as the soil can be worked.
- Small batches every few weeks.
- Early sowings crop best.
How to sow peas
Direct in the ground, or in guttering or modules to beat the mice.
-
Make a wide trench
Flat-bottomed, about 15 to 22 cm (6 to 9 in) wide and 3 to 5 cm (1 to 2 in) deep (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
-
Space the seed
In two or three staggered rows, 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in) apart. US extensions sow 2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1½ in) deep and 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2 in) apart.
-
Cover and water
Seedlings appear in one to two weeks. Soaking seed overnight, no more than 24 hours, speeds it up (Penn State).
-
Or sow in guttering
Fill a length of guttering with compost, sow 7.5 cm (3 in) apart, and slide the row into a shallow trench when the plants are about 20 cm (8 in) tall (RHS, Gardeners’ World).
-
Or deep modules
One seed per module or toilet-roll tube, about 5 cm (2 in) deep. Indoors, seed is safe from mice.
Supports and planting out
Peas climb by tendrils that wrap around anything thin: give them something at sowing time.
-
Choose supports
Twiggy pea sticks (branched prunings), netting, trellis or wire, thin enough for tendrils to grip (Gardeners’ World, Clemson). Even dwarf peas benefit.
-
Match the height
A few twiggy sticks for dwarf varieties; tall netting or trellis for tall ones (RHS).
-
Put them in early
At sowing, about 7.5 cm (3 in) from the seed. Adding supports later damages roots (Penn State).
-
Plant out module-raised peas
In March or April, once about 20 cm (8 in) tall (RHS).
-
Protect them
Fleece against cold snaps and birds, and slug protection.
Care
Water as pods form, weed shallowly, and keep the tendrils climbing.
Growth nearly stops above about 29 °C (85 °F) (Iowa State). Early sowings crop best.
Care by growth stage
Seedlings
Weed: first 6 weeks
Weed shallowly and protect from mice, birds and slugs. See pests.
Climbing
Mulch: keeps roots cool
Guide stray shoots onto supports. See planting and supports.
Flowering
Water: 2.5 cm (1 in) a week
Water well; this is when drought costs the crop. See watering.
Pods
Pick: bottom up
Pick every one to three days. See harvesting.
End of crop
Resow: next batch
Cut plants off at the base and leave the roots in the soil.
Watering peas
Peas like consistently moist, well-drained soil. In a cool, wet spring they may need no watering at all (Iowa State).
How much. About 2.5 cm (1 in) a week when rain falls short (Penn State), soaking the soil 15 cm (6 in) deep (Clemson).
When it matters. From flowering on: water needs are most critical after flowering and as pods develop (Utah State, UMD).
How. At the base, in the morning, keeping leaves dry against mildew.
Not too much. Wet soil promotes root rot (Utah State).
Mulch 5 to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 in) of leaves or straw keeps roots cool and moist (Clemson).
Feeding peas
Peas need little feeding if compost was dug in before sowing (Utah State, Iowa State).
Nitrogen. Peas fix some nitrogen through root bacteria, so extra nitrogen mostly makes leaves, delaying flowers and reducing pods (Utah State). UMD notes peas fix little nitrogen and works fertiliser in before sowing; follow a soil test.
Potash. Gardeners’ World feeds weekly with a high-potash fertiliser once flowers appear.
Keep fertiliser off seed. It injures germinating seeds (Illinois).
Peas in containers
Peas grow best in the ground, but dwarf varieties, especially faster-cropping mangetouts, crop in large containers (RHS).
Container. At least 45 cm (18 in) wide. Sow seeds 7.5 cm (3 in) apart and 5 cm (2 in) deep.
Support. Twiggy sticks, canes or chicken wire.
Care. Keep well watered: pots dry fast. Expect a smaller harvest than from a bed.
Pea shoots indoors
Pea shoots, the tender tips of young plants, taste of peas and grow indoors year-round (RHS).
Sow any variety, or one sold for shoots, into a tray of compost: seeds 2.5 cm (1 in) deep and 2.5 cm (1 in) apart.
Grow in bright light, well watered.
Cut after three to four weeks at 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in) tall, about 2.5 cm (1 in) above the base: they may resprout for a second cut.
Problems
Mice, pea moth, powdery mildew and summer heat are the main troubles.
Common pea problems
Heat, cold wet soil and hungry animals cause many pea problems.
Seed rotted or eaten
- Cold soil
- Mice
Cold, wet soil rots seed; mice dig it up. Sow indoors in guttering or modules, or wait for the soil to warm a little (RHS).
Flowers but few pods
- Heat
Hot weather, especially warm nights, makes flowers drop (Iowa State). Sow early so peas crop before summer heat.
Lush leaves, few pods
- Too much nitrogen
Overfeeding with nitrogen (Utah State). Skip the fertiliser.
Hard, starchy peas
- Late picking
Picked too late. Check every one to three days as pods fill.
Plants yellowing and dying early
- Wilt
- Root rot
- Heat
Fusarium wilt or root rot, worse in warm or wet soil. See diseases.
More problems with peas
Common pests
Pea moth
Maggoty peas inside the pods. Sow early or late to miss the moths, or cover crops with fleece or fine mesh from emergence (Gardeners’ World).
Mice and birds
Mice dig up seed; birds pull seedlings. Start plants indoors or cover rows.
Aphids
Green to pink colonies at the shoot tips; they spread virus. Wash off with water (Utah State).
Pea weevil
Beetles lay eggs on young pods; larvae eat the seed. Early sowing and harvest reduce exposure (Utah State).
Slugs, cutworms and armyworms
Chew seedlings and leaves. Collars around seedlings help against cutworms (Penn State).
Common diseases
Powdery mildew
White powder on leaves and pods, especially in hot weather late in the season (Iowa State). Grow resistant varieties, sow early, and water at the base.
Fusarium wilt
Lower leaves yellow and wilt, plants stunt and pods fill poorly; worse in soil above 21 °C (70 °F). Grow resistant varieties and sow early (Utah State, Illinois).
Pea enation virus
Mottled, crinkled leaves and distorted pods, spread by aphids. Grow resistant varieties (Utah State).
Harvest & Use
Pick from the bottom up every one to three days, and eat or freeze them soon after.
Harvesting peas
Peas are ready 50 to 75 days after sowing, depending on variety (Iowa State). The lowest pods mature first: pick from the bottom up, every one to three days (Clemson, Gardeners’ World).
Shelling peas. When pods are plump and well filled but still bright green, before the peas turn hard and starchy (UMD, Illinois).
Mangetout. When pods reach full length but are still flat, about 5 to 7 days after flowering (Illinois).
Sugar snaps. When pods start to fatten, before the peas get large; they snap cleanly (Illinois).
How. With two hands: one holding the stem, the other pulling the pod. Jerking pods can stop the plant producing or pull it up (Clemson). Pick when plants are dry.
- Every one to three days.
- Bottom pods first.
- Use two hands.
Storing and using peas
The sugar in shelling peas turns to starch fast, up to 40% within a few hours (Illinois), so eat or freeze them as soon as possible.
Fridge. Cool quickly, then keep unwashed peas in a vented bag: two to three days for shelling peas (Illinois, Clemson). Edible pods keep up to two weeks with little loss (Illinois).
Strings. Some edible-pod cultivars have a string along the seam: pull it off before cooking (UMD, Iowa State).
Shelling. Press the rounded end of the pod to split the seam and run your thumb along to pop the peas out (Iowa State).
After the harvest, cut plants off at the base and leave the roots in the soil.
Propagation
Saving seed from dried pods for next year.
Saving pea seed
Most garden pea varieties can be grown on for dry seed (Utah State), and smooth-seeded types are often used this way (Illinois).
Leave some pods on healthy plants until they are dry and papery.
Shell and dry the peas fully, then store them in a labelled envelope somewhere cool and dry for next year’s sowing.
Choose open-pollinated varieties: F1 hybrids won’t come true.
More to Explore
Quick answers, guides that pair well with peas, and the sources behind this one.
Frequently asked questions
When should I plant peas?
As soon as the soil can be worked in spring. See when to sow.
Do peas need support?
Yes, even dwarf varieties do better with twiggy sticks or netting. See supports.
Should I soak pea seeds?
Overnight, no more than 24 hours, speeds germination (Penn State).
Why are my peas not producing pods?
Usually heat or too much nitrogen. See common problems.
What’s the difference between mangetout and sugar snaps?
Mangetout pods are flat and picked before the peas grow; sugar snaps are round and crunchy with small peas inside.
How often should I pick peas?
Every one to three days while they crop.
Can I grow peas in pots?
Dwarf varieties, yes, in a container at least 45 cm (18 in) wide. See containers.
Can I eat pea shoots?
Yes: grow them indoors and cut at 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6 in). See pea shoots.
Related guides
Sources
- How to grow peas (opens in a new tab) Royal Horticultural Society
- Growing green peas in a home garden (opens in a new tab) University of Maryland Extension
- Peas in the garden (opens in a new tab) Utah State University Extension
- Peas (opens in a new tab) University of Illinois Extension
- Growing peas in Iowa (opens in a new tab) Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
- Garden peas (opens in a new tab) Clemson Cooperative Extension
- A gardener’s guide to peas (opens in a new tab) Penn State Extension
- How to grow peas (opens in a new tab) BBC Gardeners’ World